111 meters in 4.7 seconds

The time comes nearer that we have to face the sad truth: after almost 8 months, our shared world-trip comes to an end. In Lusaka we entered the bus to our last destination – Livingstone, the town at famous Victoria Falls. The bus was announced to leave at 9:30 with boarding time at 9 o’clock. After our experiences in Tanzania, we expected it to start its journey somewhere between 10:45 and midday. Slowly we walked into the bus at 9:15 just to discover that we were the last passengers and we hardly got time to get on our seats. We departed at 9:20.

In Livingstone we did not lose time to go to the Falls. We spent the whole day there, watching the scenery from the Zambian side. The time between July and September is said to be the best viewing season because during the rain period there is so much spray that you cannot see the falls from 10 meters distance. The drawback is that now the falls are a bit underwhelming. But the whole setting with narrow gorges and mighty Zambezi hurrying along is spectacular and this place is definitely worth a visit. However, the advertisement as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World is completely exaggerated. On our trip we easily saw seven places that are even more stunning – including the rivalling Falls at Iguazú. And that’s the opinion of most visitors here.

Luckily, there are many other things you can do around the Victoria Falls – if you can afford them. We chose the cheapest Zambezi Sunset Cruise they offer and were prepared to spend the sunset with hundreds of drunken British on a party boat. Instead, we ended up with a nice British family on the smallest vessel on the Zambezi, who also were happy to be on the most exclusive but simplest cruise with us. During the evening, we saw many hippos, crocodiles and even an elephant fight. Our fellows were an ex-backpacker couple who now travel with their two cute children – of course not the way they used to do and with more comfort. They still have the backpacker attitude and are ready to explore so the boat was simply perfect for them and for the kids. At home friends say they’re crazy, but for us they are a role model …. yes, you can see that we are already planning our travels in the future (and children, at least me)! In our hostel in Livingstone, we also met other nice and friendly people: a Colombian couple on their round-the-world-trip and a retired teacher from Australia who now works in Kenyan schools as a volunteer, “because he does not want to hang around”. Yet another role model for us.

Being a bit disappointed from the falls so far, we decided to follow David Livingstone’s footsteps and went to the Island where he saw the Victoria Falls as first European about 150 years ago. And indeed, we got a much better view and impression of the water’s power there. Even better, visiting the falls at the beginning of the dry season turned out to be a great idea. Directly, and we mean DIRECTLY at the edge of one big waterfall, the “Devil’s Pool” is located. It is a hole surrounded by rocks where the water spills over into the precipice. When there is less flow, the rocks form a natural barrier and allow swimmers to stay in the pool with relative safety next to the bursting cascades. Rumours tell from occasional deaths in the past years, but the guides do a good job and try to not take any risk when leading tourists to the site.

Actually, in the current period no one had swum there before and the same morning they were not sure whether it would be possible or not to go. But later, the guides gave their okay so we had the honor to be the first ones being allowed to the place. We were led through the river with a strong but anyway manageable flow. And when we finally reached the rocks, we first thought our guide was a funny guy when advising us to jump into the pool – until he did so, staying alive. We followed him and experienced one of the craziest adventures of the last months: swimming in the hole, listening to the noise and leaning over the cliff to watch down the falls and feel the strong flow of the water. Overwhelmed by this extreme views and feelings, we survived the way back and almost could not taste the delicious breakfast accordingly.

Last but not least, we are not big fans of Cecil Rhodes, still there is at least one good thing he did: with his dream of a train connecting Cape Town to Cairo, he built an impressive bridge over the gorge near the Falls. After one hundred years, it is still in use but less for transafrican railways and rather for sensation-seekers. From the top of the bridge, you can throw down yourself and with 111 meters experience the third highest bungee-jump of the world. Despite what you can see on youtube, the setting is very safe. The guys really have their routine and maintain it professionally, carefully preparing each of the jumpers for the adventure.

If you are still are among the faithful readers of our blog, you already know that this crazy bungee had to be the perfect challenge to finish our journey. Nonetheless, standing on the bridge, it actually felt more like the most stupid idea ever. Doing it is just against ANY instincts you have. Eli decided not to make it, we still went to the platform and let them put on the equipment. Steffen wanted to jump and was confident he would do so, but standing on the edge, something in his mind blocked and he had to step back. If you really cannot do it, then don’t do it as it won’t be a nice memory. I also was frightened as hell but the staff on the platform made me feel very confident that everything would work and that it was going to be a lot of fun. Thanks to their fast and cautious proceeding, I did not have time to think and jumped right away. It is difficult to describe the four and a half seconds of free fall since everything is so quick and you do not quite realize where you are and whether it goes up and down. But the speed is incredible and the feeling simply awesome. While swinging out, I could even enjoy the amazing landscape and hanging under the bridge inside the canyon. And of course, the adrenaline-kick was as extreme as the whole experience and lasted much longer.

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