111 meters in 4.7 seconds

The time comes nearer that we have to face the sad truth: after almost 8 months, our shared world-trip comes to an end. In Lusaka we entered the bus to our last destination – Livingstone, the town at famous Victoria Falls. The bus was announced to leave at 9:30 with boarding time at 9 o’clock. After our experiences in Tanzania, we expected it to start its journey somewhere between 10:45 and midday. Slowly we walked into the bus at 9:15 just to discover that we were the last passengers and we hardly got time to get on our seats. We departed at 9:20.

In Livingstone we did not lose time to go to the Falls. We spent the whole day there, watching the scenery from the Zambian side. The time between July and September is said to be the best viewing season because during the rain period there is so much spray that you cannot see the falls from 10 meters distance. The drawback is that now the falls are a bit underwhelming. But the whole setting with narrow gorges and mighty Zambezi hurrying along is spectacular and this place is definitely worth a visit. However, the advertisement as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World is completely exaggerated. On our trip we easily saw seven places that are even more stunning – including the rivalling Falls at Iguazú. And that’s the opinion of most visitors here. Continue reading

Living in Two Worlds

Our first impression of Zambia we had already in the train. The rural areas were just as underdeveloped as in Tanzania. At every village we passed, running children accompanied the train, screaming and waving their hands. For them it was the event of the week and they were happy when we waved back. You clearly saw that there was no infrastructure at all and that life has not changed so much in the last several hundred years.

We arrived at Kapiri Mposhi, a town in the Copperbelt. Northern Zambia is rich in copper and cobalt so with its mines, this region is slightly wealthier than the rest of the country. However, its economy and the well-being of the people highly depends on the world copper price. From there, we took a minibus – which was loaded like a normal bus – to the capital Lusaka. For more than 3 hours, we sat cramped on the vehicle and every time we passed the police checkpoints, one of the local passengers had to get out and pass the checkpoint walking, and the driver gave the policemen a bribe so they did not see we were completely overloaded. Regarding Lusaka, we were expecting everything. Moloch, chaos, dirt, poverty, we even were prepared to make our way through the streets with a machete, but not for what was actually to come. Continue reading

Who Cares About Problems When You Can Enjoy Life?

Admittedly, in the last months our reviews were either rather negative (Ethiopia and Nepal) or too complex to be summed up with just a positive/negative attribute (India). So we asked ourselves whether we do not like poor countries or whether we are a bit sick of travelling after all this time. Fortunately, Tanzania relieved us from these doubts: This Eastern African nation extends the list of countries we have fallen in love with.

It is not that everything is perfect here, by no means! So many prejudices about the Black Contintent proved to be true. Culturally there is not much to see in Tanzania. Except Zanzibar, the historical sites are not that impressive. And we know that we have written something like this about Bolivia, so we have to apologize and correct ourselves: Tanzania definitively is the country where nothing works. Unfortunately, this starts in the kitchen. The national dish that all Tanzanians are proud of is “Chipsi Mayai” – French fries and egg, a dish every other nation would be ashamed of serving to anyone but the worst enemy. All other food is not any better, some rice, some ugali, with lean chicken or fatty beef, accompanied by a monotone sauce. The best you can do is pouring ketchup or chilli sauce over it and eat fruits as lunch. But Tanzanians are just happy with what’s on offer, they never think about ways to make their cuisine more diverse.

Surely it is a cliché, but in the case of Tanzania it just describes the mentality in a perfect way: “Hakuna Matata” – “No Worries”. Tanzanians are always able to enjoy their life and they won’t let reality prevent them from doing so. The bus is broken and the sun is shining, so that’s a reason to smile. Or if a CD-vendor with loud music comes along and if they like the song, they start singing and dancing for a few seconds. They do not do so to show everyone their good mood, but only to enjoy the moment. They’re super friendly and want to have good relationships with everybody.

However, the coin has a flip side. They are not really interested in making things work – at least when it requires some effort. No matter how late the buses are, the driver will always have time to chat with a friend. At the train station, no one has any information about the current situation, and they do not know how their own institution is actually organized. The most important thing is that everyone is happy – may the problems be what they are – so they always will tell you that the solution is only one minute away. Usually, this explanation already replaces the solution. So Tanzania is a country where you soon become fond of the people, even when they are ruining all your plans. Yet for them it really is a pity and at least partly hampers development. It is such a waste of potentials and in effect, everything they do in Tanzania – cooking, driving, selling tickets, maintaining some kind of infrastructure, making a proper haircut – they do it very unprofessionally, without routine, chaotically, like the first time. Perhaps with the notable exception of music.

So Tanzanians have few reasons to be proud of their efficiency, instead they can be proud of something else. You hear so much about conflicts in the world but few things about the success stories of tolerance. Definitely, Tanzania is one of them. The country is roughly equally divided into Christians and Muslims. Nevertheless, there are no conflicts at all. In every small village, you’ll find a mosque and a church, often side-by-side. Little girls who come from school wear the same uniform, and some cover their hair, some don’t. A Muslim employer will have Christian workers, or the other way round. They even intermarry with each other and no one has a problem with it. Tanzanian can get very passionate when complaining about people who want to force others to believe this or that. They’re glad that only a small minority behaves like that.

Moreover, they have dozens of tribes in their country. But tribal conflicts are virtually absent. All live peacefully together and tribes actually do not play a big role in the society, except as source of stereotypes for popular jokes. The nation-building policy adopted by Julius Nyere, which included strict enforcement of Swahili at school, may have yielded some fruits. Nowadays, Tanzania is open for refugees from the whole region, who make their way to this African country to benefit from its stability. Even better for us, they are so tolerant that foreigners do not need to feel alien. We were astonished how unimportant the color of our skin seemed to be. They never thought that it was a reason to overcharge us or to start begging and the ratio of beggars is probably not significantly higher than in Western Europe. Tanzanians treated us friendly and fair, just like everyone else. They did not stare at us or seemed to be surprised when seeing a white man. They simply were ready to have a friendly talk like they use to have there and to enjoy the time we have together. So thanks to Tanzania, we now definitely feel welcome in Africa!

Delay, African Style

For our last couple of days in Tanzania, we decided to stay in Mbeya, the most important town in the southern part of the country, to experience some real life. Mbeya has a bit more than 250000 inhabitants but the “center” really does not feel like this. They just have two or three streets with a few shops, one bar and some restaurants with the usual monotone menus. It is very calm there but also a bit boring. Interestingly, the suburbs seem to be a bit more lively.

After having survived hairdressers from all over the world during 13 months, Mbeya was the first place where I should surrender. The “Jihad” barbershop (nomen est omen) had his first try to perform a comparatively long hairstyle on me. Using only the machine, he managed to give my hair all possible lengths between 5 mm to 10 cm without any visible structure. Finalizing his experimental art with an “it’s enough now”, he after all decided to use the scissors for cutting my beard. It would be an understatement to say I looked horrible. So I had to go to the adjacent barber’s shop to try and correct a few things, which at the end meant to now have the shortest haircut since I was 5 years old. Continue reading

Learning from Lions

Luckily, Eli’s treatment worked well and her state improved so fast that we did not have to cancel the last part of safari: Ruaha National Park. It is located at the great Ruaha River, on a high plateau in south Tanzania and provides a beautiful landscape besides an abundant wildlife. Even if it is said to be rather remote compared to Serengeti, it almost felt overcrowded to us after having been totally alone in Katavi. We spent a wonderful day there despite the fact that by changing the program without previous announcement, our guide Hussein apparently tried to cheat on us. Our new driver Raman did his best to make our stay unforgettable and we regret not having booked him from the start. We saw zebras, antelopes, kudus, giraffes, storks, marabous, crocodiles, hippos, jackals, elephants and lions, including a whole family with babies. You might think that the savannah is bursting of activity, but you should take into account that it is still Tanzania. Actually, most animals sleep all the time or trot around until finding a comfortable place in the shade to take a rest. And the Master of Laziness is the King of the Savannah: the indeed majestic and also pretty idle lion. We cannot but admire this animal. Lying around all the day surrounded by 3 to 6 females, he lets time pass by. Once in a while he commands his harem to go hunting and bring him some food. After that sometimes it’s mating time, sometimes not. And for this exhausting way of life, he receives the highest respect of everyone else …. well done, lion!

Disappointingly, Hussein failed to book our accommodation at the Bandas, located in the center of the park. This is a cool place because elephants and giraffes love to come and greet you there. We had our lunch at this place and saw an elephant walking between the huts, chasing an incautious visitor. Slowly, we approached him with Eli walking a few steps behind. Obviously, she was respectful and a bit frightened although she considered the elephant to be nice and cute –– a rather female attitude. When her view was blocked by a bush while we could see the elephant, we counted to 3 and started sprinting away. Her face changed in a fraction of a second from slight fear to blank horror. We could not stop laughing and a ranger found this trick so funny that he fell to the ground because he laughed so heavily. Sorry Eli for this joke but we are happy to have you here :-) ;-) :P :D Continue reading