Luckily They Have Mountains and Lakes

Still being a bit overwhelmed and perhaps too confident about the easiness of taking a hitch in Central Asia, after the surprisingly uncomplicated border crossing to Kyrgyzstan, we jumped onto the passenger seats of an old pickup. The driver was also going all the way down along the Karkara River towards our first Kyrgyz destination, the 3rd biggest town Karakol. With our poor Russian we thought having agreed on a fair price, but when we reached our destination, the driver insisted that the price was meant to be in dollars and not the local currency. Of course this would have been way too much and the whole situation started becoming uncomfortable, almost threatening …. but in the end we could convince him to let us go without loosing such a big amount of money – yet with a slightly bitter feeling of having given him an inadequate wage for a journey he would have done anyway though. Additionally our backpacks smelled quite strongly like gasoline, because they had lied on old fuel drums in the van during the whole ride. All this was not the best start for our next country to visit! The city of Karakol itself was not really improving our mood, most houses, prefabricated blocks and streets are rather dilapidated or abandoned, there are no nice parks and everything seems to have been built thoughtless and without any soul. A few remaining buildings, monuments and avenues from the Soviet Era are always empty and contribute a lot to this bleak cityscape, and the few loveless and arbitrarily placed children’s attractions in the center are seldom used and totally unsuccessful in giving the town back a bit of life. Given that Karakol is famous for being a popular holiday destination, seeing this desolate state was a bit disappointing as well. Continue reading

Hitchhiker’s Guide to South-East Kazakhstan

Without really knowing what would expect us during the following 4 weeks, we started our journey in Almaty, Kazakhstan’s most important hub (but not capital, since it has been replaced by Astana). Living in decent Almaty Backpackers Hostel, we spent the first day walking through this nice city along modern apartments, Soviet style monuments and avenues, countless water fountains and lots of very green parks, which together with the unobtrusive people give the city a relaxed atmosphere. Additionally, we were quite impressed by the number of Audis, BMWs and Mercedes and realized how wealthy Almaty and its inhabitants are. And most important, I could finally enjoy dry warm weather after Germany’s horrible summer, whereas the dust admittedly prevented a clear view from Kok-Tobe Hill over the whole town.

As Almaty is bordered by the Tian Shan Mountains, we also went for a hike to nearby Medeu and Shymbulak. Although it surely helps Almaty’s large middle-class enjoying their life to the full, this new ski-resort is not the best place for hiking, because unfortunately many recently built modern lifts and ski runs have destroyed big parts of the nature. In fact we had to ascent 1500m straight on steep dry tracks until we eventually reached an area worth trekking. At least we were rewarded with a beautiful view over 4000m snow-covered peals and glaciers and enjoyed climbing additional 500 meters of altitude over stones and rocks to find the best spots. Having to descend all the way again was extremely exhausting but we will take it as good training for further treks ;-) Continue reading

Please tell me once more: where do you travel to this time?

…. Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan.

Okay, and where the hell is that? – in Central Asia, where you’ll find literally nothing when looking on your atlas.

Uh, and then why would one go there? – Exactly for that reason.

Well, I wish you good luck for this slightly strange idea then!

So almost one year after having come back from my world-trip, it is time for me to start my next journey to the still pretty much undiscovered natural beauties of the mountains, lakes and deserts in the “-stan” countries and to the aforesaid marvellous cities along the old Silk Road. I will try and make my way through those former Soviet-ruled republics and dictatorships with Michael, ex flat-mate, future pilot and good friend of mine.

Although I still don’t know whether we’ll have the time and infrastructure to feed this blog as much as during the time with Steffen, you are welcome to drop by every now and then – maybe there will be something new, interesting or funny to read about …. so long!

Date A Boy Who Travels

Date a boy who travels. Date a boy who treasures experience over toys, a hand-woven bracelet over a Rolex. Date the boy who scoffs when he hears the words, “vacation”, “all-inclusive” or “resort”. Date a boy who travels because he’s not blinded by a single goal but enlivened by many.

You might find him in an airport or at a book store browsing the travel guides – although he “only uses them for reference.”

You’ll know it’s him because when you peek at his computer screen his background will be a scenic splendor of rolling hills, mountains or prayer flags. His Facebook friend count will be over-the-roof and his wall will be plastered with the broken English ‘miss-you’ of friends he met along the way. When he travels he makes lifelong friends in an hour. And although contact with these friends is sporadic and may be far-between, his bonds are unmessable and if he wanted he could couch surf the world… again.

Buy him a beer. Maybe the same brand that he wears on the singlet under his plaid shirt, unable to truly let go. Once a traveller gets home people rarely listen to their stories. So listen to him. Allow him to paint a picture that brings you into his world. He might talk fast and miss small details because he’s so excited to be heard. Bask in his enthusiasm. Want it for yourself.

He’ll squeak like an excited toddler when his latest issue of National Geographic arrives in the mail. Then he’ll grow quiet, engrossed, until he finishes his analysis of every photo, every adventure. In his mind he’ll insert himself in these pictures. He’ll pass the issue on to you and grill you about your dreams and competitively ask about the craziest thing you’ve ever done. Tell him. And know that he’ll probably win. And if by chance you win, know that his next lot in life will be to out do you. But then he’ll say, “Maybe we can do it together.”

Date the boy who talks of distant places and whose hands have explored the stone relics of ancient civilizations and whose mind has imagined those hands carving, chiseling, painting the wonders of the world. And when he talks, it’s as if he’s reliving it with you. You can almost hear his heart racing. You can almost feel the adrenaline ramped up by the moment. You feel it passing through his synapsis, a feast to his eyes entering through those tiny oracles of experience that we call pupils, digesting rapidly through his veins, manifesting into his nervous system, transforming and altering his worldview like a reverse trauma and finally passing but forever changing the colors of his sight. (Unless he’s Karl Pilkington.) You will want this too.

Date a boy who’s lived out of a backpack because he lives happily with less. A boy who’s travelled has seen poverty and dined with those who live in small shanties with no running water, and yet welcome strangers with greater hospitality than the rich. And because he’s seen this, he’s seen how a life without luxury can mean a life fueled by relationships and family rather than a life that fuels fancy cars and ego. He’s experienced different ways of being, respects alternative religions and he looks at the world with the eyes of a five-year-old, curious and hungry. Your dad will be happy too because he’s good with money and knows how to budget.

This boy relishes home; the comfort of a duvet, the safety stirred in a mom-cooked meal, the easy conversation of childhood friends and the immaculate glory of the flush-toilet. Although fiercely independent, he has had time to reflect on himself and his relationships. Despite his wanderlust he knows and appreciates his ties to home. He has had a chance to miss and be missed. Because of this, he also knows a thing or two about goodbyes. He knows the overwhelming uncertainty of leaving the comforts of home, the indefinite see-you-laters at the departure gates and yet he fearlessly goes into the unknown because he knows the feeling of return. And that the I’ve-missed-you-hug is the best type of hug in the whole world. He also knows that goodbyes are just prolonged see-you-laters and that ‘hello’ is only as far away as the nearest internet cafe.

Don’t hold onto this boy. Let this boy go and go with him. If you haven’t travelled, he will open your eyes to a world beyond the news and popular perception. He will open your dreams to possibility and reality. He will calm your nerves when you’re about to miss a flight or when your rental blows a flat, because he knows the journey is the adventure. He will make light of the unsavory noises you make when you – and you will – get food poisoning. He will make you laugh through the discomfort all while dabbing your forehead with a cold cloth and nursing you with bottled water. He will make you feel like you’re home.

When you see something beautiful he will hold your hand in silence, in awe the history of where his feet stand and the fact that you’re with him.

He will live in every moment with you because this is how he lives his life. He understands that happiness is no more than a string of moments that displace neutrality and he is determined to tie as many of these strings together as he can. He also understands your need to live for yourself and that you have a bucketlist of your own. Understand his. Understand that your goals may at some points differ but that independence is the cornerstone of a healthy relationship when it’s mutually respected. You may lose him for a bit but he will always come home bearing a new story and a souvenir he picked up because it reminded him of you, like it was made for you and because he missed you. You might be compelled to do the same. Make sure that independence is on your bucketlist and make sure it’s checked. Independence will keep your relationship fresh and exciting and when you’re together again it will forge a bond of unbreakable trust.

He’ll propose when you’ve breached your comfort-zone, whether it be a fear like skydiving or swimming with sharks or sitting next to the smelly person on an overcrowded bus. It won’t be with a diamond ring but with a token from a native culture or inspired by nature, like the penguin and the pebble.

You will get married somewhere unassumed, surrounded by a select few in a moment constructed to celebrate venturing into the unknown together again. Marry the boy who’s travelled and together you will make the whole world your home. Your honeymoon will not be forgotten to a buffet dinner and all-you-can-drink beach bars, but will be remembered in the triumphant photographs at the top of Kilimanjaro and memorialized in the rewarding ache of muscles at the end of a long days hike.

When you’re ready, you will have children that have the names of the characters you met on your journeys, the foreign names of people who dug a special place in your heart if only for a few days. Perhaps you will live in another country and your children will learn of language and customs that open their minds from the very start, leaving no room for prejudice. He will introduce them to the life of Hemingway, the journey of Santiago, and empower them to live even bigger than both of you.

Marry a boy who travels and he’ll teach your children the beauty of a single stone, the history of the Incas and he will instil in them the bravery of possibility. He will explain to them that masking opportunity there is fear. He will teach them to concur it.

And when you’re old, you’ll sit with your grandchildren pouring over your photo albums and chest of worldly treasures while they too insert themselves into your photographs, sparked by the beauty of the world and inspired by your life in it.

Find a boy who travels because you deserve a life of adventure and possibility. You deserve to live light and embrace simplicity. You deserve to look at life through the eyes of youth and with your arms wide open. Because this is where you will find joy. And better, you will find joy together. And if you can’t find him, travel. Go. Embrace it. Explore the world for yourself because dreams are the stuff reality is made from.

Originally published on Where Are My Heels.

Show Must Go On

I have now written on this blog during such a long period that it is a bit difficult to realize that I am posting the very last entry. How can I find a reflective conclusion, an ultimate morality for this kind of diary? Actually I think we have more or less said everything that was worth being told, hence I’ll try and finally stay brief (probably the remaining non-existent visitors are all tired of reading large essays). One thing I can say for sure is that there is so much more to discover, so many places I’d still like to travel to and that I am keen on learning more from people all around the world. Thus, it was definitely not the last time I have gone to some foreign country, and I hope that also you can find the opportunity and necessary motivation to dare the adventure. To be certain that you won’t be running out of ideas, I’ll leave you with quite a few additional suggestions – some stuff we have not done either. You might wonder that there even more languages I would like to speak, but on a world-scale being fluent in 4 languages is nothing uncommon. In fact, compared to our skills in Europe, the US or South-America, there are lots of regions where it is normal if you master 5 or 6 different languages – regardless of the level of education and the social status …. so long!

Things to do for the next world trip:

  • go to an Argentine soccer game (“de River, por supuesto”)
  • visit Central America
  • learn Quechua
  • trek to Choquequirao
  • ascent the summits of El Misti, Nevado de Cachi and the Illimani
  • do more rock climbing and biking in the Andes
  • go to the south of Chile and Argentina (Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego)
  • stay longer in New Zealand’s nature, enjoying the beautiful landscape
  • play rugby on Tonga and never leave the “Friendly Islands” again
  • dive at great spots all around the world
  • do a Chinese language course in Yangshuo
  • explore South-East Asia
  • take the train from Kyrgyzstan via Xinjiang and Tibet to Myanmar
  • catch up on Persian and Arab countries
  • discover Gabon, Uganda, Sudan and Djibouti, the latter during whale season
  • definitely return to West Africa, and take the opportunity for a relaxing week in São Tomé and Príncipe, a supposedly virgin place on earth
  • spend your holidays on Madagascar, again during whale season
  • travel more using hitch-hiking
  • don’t forget your Euro coins for exchanging or offering them to hosts or locals
  • have a child and take advantage of the “Elternzeit”
  • make street music
  • and of course, buy the GoPro

And great resources we used a lot while travelling to plan our further journey: